
They look like white pearls swirling around a cube, like flowing water, sucked into a slow motion vortex. “Here I am, at your service my Lord, here I am at your service...” they recite. Their voices echo throughout the lands of Arabia. Everyone’s thinking the same, doing the same. Wealth, nationality, status and colour; they have no importance in this timeless ritual. The humid heat hits them at 40 degrees, but it’s their conviction which flies them to great spiritual heights. From the incredible India towards the mystical Morocco, from the colourful China towards the ambitious America, the eyes of countless praying men and women, turn five times towards it, today and all days.
“Imagine three million people praying together, three million people worshipping together, three million people bumping into each other, saying salaam (peace be upon you) to each other, eating together...this is Hajj” says, passionate 48-year-old pilgrim, Yusuf Ali . The Hajj pilgrimage is one of the five pillars of Islam and a once-in-lifetime obligation, which a Muslim must carry out if he has the means. Its rituals re-enact the events of the prophet Abraham (peace be upon him) who is also a central figure in Judaism and Christianity.
In the past people used to travel for months, sometimes years in order to get a glimpse of the sacred Islamic house of God, the Ka’ba. Even now with advances in transport people can come anytime to this holy land but still Muslims yearn to share this sacred rite which brings them to the very heart of Islam.
Yusuf, describes his experience as: “...spiritual, emotional and magnificent.”
“Hajj is just like mango” he says. “Once you peel it and do the effort, then you can taste the sweetness”.
Every year, around 20,000 British Muslims travel to Mecca in Saudi Arabia, for Hajj. For Yusuf this was going to be his fourth pilgrimage there. He says he never really thought about going again: “This year I never had any intention of going, all of a sudden my wife said she wanted to go but financially I was a bit hard up aswell. I said to myself “I’ve done three times and I’m getting old.””
“But in Islam, the wife have certain rights over the husband so I couldn’t refuse her”, he says with a smile. Yusuf who lives in Luton, left his children at his brothers house and went off with his wife for another unforgettable experience.
Meticulous preparation is needed if you want the maximum benefits of Hajj says Yusuf. It is a journey, which tests your mental strength as well as your physical strength. For example walking long distances and camping in desert tents, often with only the most basic sanitation. He says the most important quality to have there is patience: “You have to know your homework before you go out on this journey. There’s so much things you have to learn. The biggest thing you need to have is patience.”
After arriving in Mecca, the first thing you notice, Yusuf says, is the humid heat: “There’s a lot of heat, but it’s a nice spiritual heat.” He explains it doesn’t really affect the Hajj experience in anyway because the atmosphere makes up for it: “There’s very, very high spiritual buzz there. I feel like when I’m there I want to do so much worship. Everyone’s just like you there, focused on one thing; Allah.”
Every Pilgrim wants to see the Ka’ba, when arriving in Mecca for the first time. More than two thousand year old, it stands 39 feet high, over towering the pilgrim with its black and golden embroidery. It’s believed by Muslims to have been built by Prophet Abraham (pbuh) with his son Ishmael (pbuh). Yusuf describes his first time seeing the Ka’ba as ‘very emotional’: “Seeing the Ka’ba, your tears just have to roll. Because first thing you see in your heart is that, “I’m a sinner”, and being a sinner how can Allah has given me the tawfiq (guidance) to come to his house.”
Every pilgrim tries to touch the Ka’ba and make a short supplication as well as trying to kiss the black stone; the same stone believed to have been kissed by Prophet Muhammed (pbuh). The stone is believed to be a meteorite and Muslims believe it was brought down by Adam and Eve when they were exiled from paradise for eating the forbidden fruit.
The black stone is situated on the eastern corner of the Ka’ba and people who want to kiss it, often barge their way through other pilgrims. Yusuf has never been able to kiss the black Stone because of the vast crowds of people: “I think it’s forbidden. Me with my strength obviously I can push people away, but because I can damage some people, I just left it.”
The Hajj is spread into four days, with each ritual representing an event of a prophet’s life, namely Adam (pbuh) and Abraham (pbuh). The stoning of the pillars for example represents Abrahams denial of the temptations of Satan. When Abraham took his son Ishmael for the sacrifice asked of him by God, Satan came to him to try and divert him from the noble act. Abraham drove him away by throwing stones at him. It symbolises the driving away of one's personal devils. The day then culminates in the sacrifice of sheep that symbolises the ram that God placed on the altar instead of Ishmael. Many people used to get killed during this ritual which unfortunately left a devastating scar on what is supposed to be a journey, of humility and reflection. But Yusuf reassuringly says, it’s become “more safer”: “Back then Hajj was...really, really hard, yknow people used to get trampled over, but now its been made much easier than past generations because of these new buildings that keep people in order and in big lines.”
What kept Yusuf motivated throughout the journey was visiting the places where the prophets used to stay: “What gives you a big spiritual buzz is when you visit the places where the prophets used to be. You think to yourself Muhammad (pbuh) stayed here, he prayed here. This is what keeps you going.”
In 2008 a total of 1,729,841 foreign pilgrims arrived in Saudi Arabia from 178 countries. Of the foreign pilgrims, 54.3% are male and 45.7% female. Male pilgrims have to wear two white pieces of cloth, and as for women they have to wear a white dress which covers them along with a headscarf. Yusuf says it’s this simple white cloth, which makes you less boastful and increases your modesty: “‘Hajj’ is another word for testing yourself, your pride. Allah does not see your wealth or anything, all your wages are wiped off through the simple white cloth you wear, the cloth that you take to the grave. Allah looks at your heart and your intentions.”
Some of Yusuf’s non-Muslims colleagues have told him he was “crazy” to go on this journey: They say I’m crazy, but then again that’s their view. Unless they come to the fold of Islam they will never really understand what Hajj really means. To them it seems like a joke to them, going round in circles, visiting places and then throwing stones because they don’t know what’s behind these things.”
Malcolm X was a well known figure to have carried out the Hajj Pilgrimage. He was so moved by the Hajj that his whole notion of the “black supremacy” disappeared. He now knew what ‘true’ brotherhood really meant: “During the past eleven days here in the Muslim world, I have eaten from the same plate, drunk from the same glass, and slept in the same bed (or on the same rug) - while praying to the same God- with fellow Muslims, whose eyes were the bluest of blue, whose hair was blondest of blond, and whose skin was the whitest of white. And in the words and in the actions and the deeds of the 'white' Muslims, I felt the same sincerity that I felt among the black African Muslims of Nigeria, Sudan, and Ghana. We were truly all the same (brothers). (Malcolm X, Hajj 1964)
For Yusuf and all the other 1.2 billion Muslims around the world, Hajj is the culmination of their spiritual lives (until they pass over to the next life that is) As Malcolm X stated the real benefit of Hajj is that you see yourselves as the same as everyone else, however different you maybe, as brothers and sisters, and as human beings.
And if the words of a content pilgrim are anything to go by: “I’d love to go again an again and again.”